Divine Secrets of Kanchipuram: From Ancient Temples to Kanjeevaram Sarees

In the southern region of India lies a city known as the Kashi of South India, where Kamakshi Devi, Shiva, and Vishnu are believed to reside, and where Shri Adi Shankaracharya attained salvation through Samadhi. This city, Kanchipuram, often referred to as the city of one thousand temples, is situated in Tamil Nadu and holds significance as one of the seven holiest Hindu pilgrimages in India. My journey to explore this ancient city marks the second chapter of my Saptha Puri series.

Exploring the secrets of Kanchipuram

Departing from Bengaluru, I embarked on a bus journey early in the morning, followed by a ride in an auto rickshaw from the highway to reach Kanchipuram. This visit marks my third time experiencing the beauty of this city. Despite the intense heat, which is somewhat more bearable compared to Bengaluru, hunger calls, leading me to Siva's Cafe to enjoy a meal and embrace the warmth.

Kanchipuram boasts a rich history, dating back to ancient times. It is famously known as the capital of the Pallava dynasty, which flourished in the region. However, the city's history predates the Pallavas, with references found as early as 6 BCE by scholars like Patanjali and poets like Kalidasa. Successive rulers, including the Cholas and the Vijayanagara Empire, have left their imprint on Kanchipuram's art, architecture, and culture. Despite facing invasions, particularly by Aurangzeb in the 17th century, the city's temples remain intact, with the original deities preserved.

Maintaining its historical essence, Kanchipuram offers a glimpse into its ancient past, with temples dating back over a thousand years. As I begin my exploration, I am joined by Nawin, a friend and guide who works in the Railways. Together, we embark on a journey to witness the city's renowned temples, starting with the oldest cave temple located on the outskirts of Kanchipuram.

Temples of Kanchipuram 

Our exploration takes us to Mamandur, where the first rock-cut cave temple was built during the reign of Mahendravarman I of the Pallava dynasty in the 6th century. Despite its historical significance, the temple receives relatively fewer visitors. However, its timeless beauty and rich heritage make it a must-visit destination for those interested in history and architecture.

Following our temple visit, we pause to observe a family puja, immersing ourselves in the local customs and traditions. As the day progresses, we take a break to enjoy tea and coffee, replenishing our energy amidst the scorching heat.

Kanchipuram's temple architecture evolved over time, transitioning from cave temples to stone-cut and structural temples, exemplified by landmarks like the Shore Temple in nearby Mahabalipuram.

In the midst of exploring the myriad temples of Kanchipuram, one particular gem shines above the rest—the magnificent Kailasanathar Temple. Situated amidst the city's ancient streets, this temple holds a special place in the hearts of worshippers and visitors alike. Its name, Kailasanathar, pays homage to Lord Shiva, whose abode is believed to be Mount Kailash in the Himalayas, though the mountain itself now resides in Chinese territory.

Built in the 7th century during the zenith of the Pallava dynasty, the Kailasanathar Temple stands as one of the earliest structural temples in South India, setting a precedent for architectural marvels to come. The temple complex houses a central shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, alongside nine additional shrines devoted to various aspects of the deity.

As we explore further, we encounter the Kamakshi Amman Temple, a revered shrine where devotees seek blessings for fertility and familial prosperity. Legend has it that Adi Shankaracharya himself intervened here, reforming the temple's rituals to appease the goddess and usher in an era of spiritual harmony.

Venturing deeper into Kanchipuram's spiritual tapestry, we encounter the Ekambareswarar Temple, a sprawling complex dedicated to Lord Shiva and revered as one of the Panchabhuta Sthalas, representing the element of earth. With its towering gopuram and intricate architecture, the temple stands as a testament to the city's rich cultural heritage.

Our journey continues to the Shri Vardaraja Perumal Temple, a sacred Vishnu shrine steeped in history and tradition. This temple, part of the revered Divya Desam, boasts inscriptions from various dynasties, each contributing to its grandeur over the centuries. Notably, the temple hosts the Ati Varadar festival once every 40 years, drawing millions of devotees from far and wide to witness the sacred ritual of unveiling the ancient idol from its underwater abode.

As our pilgrimage through Kanchipuram draws to a close, we reflect on the city's enduring legacy—a tapestry woven with threads of devotion, tradition, and timeless spirituality. From the ancient caves to the towering gopurams, each temple stands as a testament to the city's unwavering faith and eternal reverence for the divine.

In the midst of exploring the myriad temples of Kanchipuram, one particular gem shines above the rest—the magnificent Kailasanathar Temple. Situated amidst the city's ancient streets, this temple holds a special place in the hearts of worshippers and visitors alike. Its name, Kailasanathar, pays homage to Lord Shiva, whose abode is believed to be Mount Kailash in the Himalayas, though the mountain itself now resides in Chinese territory.

Built in the 7th century during the zenith of the Pallava dynasty, the Kailasanathar Temple stands as one of the earliest structural temples in South India, setting a precedent for architectural marvels to come. The temple complex houses a central shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, alongside nine additional shrines devoted to various aspects of the deity.

As we explore further, we encounter the Kamakshi Amman Temple, a revered shrine where devotees seek blessings for fertility and familial prosperity. Legend has it that Adi Shankaracharya himself intervened here, reforming the temple's rituals to appease the goddess and usher in an era of spiritual harmony.

Venturing deeper into Kanchipuram's spiritual tapestry, we encounter the Ekambareswarar Temple, a sprawling complex dedicated to Lord Shiva and revered as one of the Panchabhuta Sthalas, representing the element of earth. With its towering gopuram and intricate architecture, the temple stands as a testament to the city's rich cultural heritage.

Our journey continues to the Shri Vardaraja Perumal Temple, a sacred Vishnu shrine steeped in history and tradition. This temple, part of the revered Divya Desam, boasts inscriptions from various dynasties, each contributing to its grandeur over the centuries. Notably, the temple hosts the Ati Varadar festival once every 40 years, drawing millions of devotees from far and wide to witness the sacred ritual of unveiling the ancient idol from its underwater abode.

As our pilgrimage through Kanchipuram draws to a close, we reflect on the city's enduring legacy—a tapestry woven with threads of devotion, tradition, and timeless spirituality. From the ancient caves to the towering gopurams, each temple stands as a testament to the city's unwavering faith and eternal reverence for the divine.

Exploring Kanchi Math

Sometimes, unique things happen when you travel, and along with that, you get to learn something new. Such was the experience of meeting Shankar during breakfast, a Tamil local with a warm heart and a passion for sharing his culture. A chance encounter led to an unexpected change of plans as Shankar invited me to join him on an adventure to the iconic Kanchi Math, a revered ancient site brimming with wisdom and heritage. As we embarked on this journey together, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the serendipitous moments that travel brings, opening doors to new experiences and friendships.

As we delved deeper into Kanchipuram's spiritual tapestry, the legacy of Adi Shankaracharya loomed large. Credited with revitalizing Hinduism in India, Shankaracharya's profound teachings and philosophical insights continue to resonate through the ages. Born in Kerala and attaining Moksha at a young age, Shankaracharya's influence extended far and wide, establishing sacred centers known as the Four Dham in Badrinath, Puri, Dwarka, and Sringeri. His Advaita Vedanta philosophy, centered on the concept of "Aham Brahmasmi" (I am Brahman), remains a cornerstone of Hindu thought, inspiring seekers on the path of self-realization. Our visit to Kanchipuram wouldn't be complete without paying homage to the revered sage, whose spiritual presence continues to illuminate the city's cultural landscape.

Savory Delights and Culinary Adventures

Amidst our spiritual explorations, culinary delights awaited, offering a taste of Kanchipuram's rich gastronomic heritage. From savoring the delectable Kovil Idlis, steeped in tradition and flavor, to indulging in the savory crunch of dosas, every meal was a culinary adventure waiting to be savored. As I sampled the local delicacies, I couldn't help but marvel at the vibrant tapestry of flavors that adorned Kanchipuram's culinary landscape, each dish a testament to the region's rich cultural heritage.

Immersing in the Art of Kanjeevaram Sarees

No visit to Kanchipuram is complete without a journey into the world of Kanjeevaram sarees, exquisite creations that embody the region's artisanal craftsmanship and timeless elegance. Venturing into Prakash Silk & Sarees, a renowned silk emporium, I was captivated by the resplendent display of sarees, each intricately woven with tales of tradition and artistry. From the intricate Korvai designs to the majestic motifs inspired by temple architecture, every saree spoke of a legacy steeped in heritage and grace. As I embarked on a journey to find the perfect saree for my mother, I couldn't help but marvel at the timeless allure of Kanjeevaram sarees, a cherished treasure of Kanchipuram's cultural legacy.

A Glimpse into the Saree Weaver's World

Beyond the opulent display of sarees lay the untold stories of the weavers, whose tireless efforts breathe life into every thread. Journeying into the heart of Kanchipuram's weaving community, I was humbled by the dedication and resilience of the artisans, whose hands wove magic into every saree. Amidst tales of tradition and hardship, a stark reality emerged—the dwindling numbers of artisans grappling with economic challenges, a poignant reminder of the fragile ecosystem that sustains this age-old craft. As I listened to their stories and shared moments of camaraderie, I gained a newfound appreciation for the invaluable legacy of handloom weaving, a testament to the enduring spirit of Kanchipuram's artisanal heritage.

Embracing Cultural Festivities and Spiritual Traditions

From vibrant temple processions to sacred rituals steeped in tradition, Kanchipuram's cultural calendar overflowed with festivities and spiritual fervor. Whether joining in the joyful celebrations of the Nadba Festival or witnessing the grandeur of the Maha Brahmootsav, every moment was a testament to the city's rich cultural tapestry. As I immersed myself in the vibrant hues of Kanchipuram's cultural landscape, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and reverence for the timeless traditions that continue to thrive amidst the passage of time.

As my time in Kanchipuram drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the myriad experiences that had colored my journey—a tapestry woven with threads of spirituality, tradition, and human connection. From the hallowed halls of ancient temples to the bustling streets filled with the aroma of savory delights, every moment had been a revelation, offering glimpses into the soul of Kanchipuram's cherished heritage. As I bid farewell to this enchanting city, I carried with me memories that would linger forever—a testament to the transformative power of travel and the enduring legacy of Kanchipuram's cultural treasures.