Muharram in Ahmedabad - experiences from old city!

Muharram was always on my list when I was in Ahmedabad, but somehow I could never attend the Muharram procession in my favourite city while I lived there. Somehow I had given up all hopes to attend the event in the city, but a chance visit to Ahmedabad last weekend made my years long wish come true and I could actively participate in the event, and so some photography as well :)

muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
This Tazia was made completely with paper!

muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
A young boy at the Muharram procession
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
One of the biggest Tazia at Muharram
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
Another Tazia

So for those who do know know much Muharram, here is a short re-cap. Muharram is the first month of the Islamic calendar and it's also a month of mourning. Both Shias and Sunnis observe the month, though the precessions are a part of the Shia tradition. The event marks the Battle of Karbala when Imam Hissain ibn Ali, grandson of Muhammad, was martyred by the second caliph. Along with him 72 more people were killed, including his six month old son Ali.

It is believed that the Azadari of Muharram was started by the family of Profhet Mohammad after the battle of Karbala in 680 AD. Since then it's an important part of Shia traditions.

In India, one of the biggest Muharram processions takes place in the city of Nawaba - Lucknow and Bada Imambada is the focal point of the mornings.

Muharram in Ahmedabad

Muharram in Ahmedabad is also a large event which starts late afternoon (4-5pm) and goes on till late in the night till about 11pm. The procession starts from the Relief Road and ends on the banks of river Sabarmati.

Tazias are the most important part of the Muharram procession and there are hundreds these which are taken through the streets one after the other. A Tazia is a representation of the Tomb of Imam Hissain ibn Ali and it's made in different shapes and sizes based on the group which is making them. At Ahmedabad there are also prizes for the best Tazia during the procession itself. The making of Tazia starts months in advance and often lots of money is spent on them. There are many with lights and these are followed by a generator each which supply the power to keep them lit.

At the river banks a tradition called 'Tazia khan karna' takes place where the Tazias are either immersed in water or water is sprinkled on them. In many other parts of the world, the Tazias are not immersed but buried in the ground.

Here are some of the images I clicked at the procession :)

Tazias of Ahmedabad 

muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
Tazia passing in front of the Sidi Sayyed Mosque
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
An inside view of the Tazia
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
An elaborate Tazia
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
View inside another Tazia
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
The horse of Hussein
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
A more colourful Tazia

Action on the streets!

Of course, there is a lot of action on the streets. There are drums and music and lots and lots of food as well. Kids specially enjoy the precision the most, and run around playing and eating loads of food.

The main procession usually has only men participating while the women gather up on the sides of the road to observe. Children join in wherever they find more fun happening :)

muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
Kids playing drums
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
Adults playing drums
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
And more drumming :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
A young father with his young son :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
There were many camels pulling the Tazias...
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
Some were there to spread some messages as well...

Portraits from the Muharram

As I walked around with the crowd, almost everyone wanted their pictures to be taken, and I also happily obliged. So let me leave you with some portraits form the procession :)

muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession tazia
An old Muslim man
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
A young boy pulling a Tazia
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
A policeman on duty!
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
A happy smiling boy :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
Taking a smoke break!
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
A young boy enjoying his snack :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
He posed :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
Friends posing :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
Two little girls :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
A bunch of guys posing!
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
He insisted his picture to be taken :)
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
Taught with his family!
muharram india 2015 ahmedabad street procession
A young boy with the Tazia :)

Comments

  1. The mosque is incredible. Super street photography and people watching shots.

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  2. Wonderful post... you captured the emotions around Muharram ... and I remember the policman from Insta post :)

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    1. Thanks Prasad! Yes the policeman was featured on IG also :)

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  3. Great street photos! The posed and candid were all very good. The faces showed how much everyone was enjoying it.

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    1. Thanks so much Pat! Apologies for such a late reply...

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  4. Wonderful pictures, full of life and cheer!

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  5. Really nice.. Great pictures and very simply explained.

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  6. Thank you so much Siddharta for sharing this amazing story. I am from ahmedabad and have stayed there for more then 12 years before moving to Mumbai for further studies. I know almost each and every street of this place but it is surprising that i never knew that there is a muharram proccession in ahmedabad and that to at such a large scale.
    Its a great story with such good images. Ahmedabad never misses a chance to surprise.

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    1. Thanks for your comment Rajiv! Ahmedabad is a city close to my heart also and I also saw this procession only after moving out of the city to Mumbai on a travel trip :)

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