Paranthewali Gali in Chandni Chowk: Overhyped?

So anyone who wants to explore the street food culture of New Delhi would have to visit the old part of the city to try out its most authentic form. This is the perfect place for both vegetarians as well as non-vegeterians to try out all sorts of savory items - chaat, sweets, kebabs, and last but not the least the famed paranthas. And the one place that's believed to be the best for this is Paranthewali Gali in Chandni Chowk.

Our paranthas getting deep fried!

Quick History

Parathas are famous in North India more than any other part of the country (Kerala parantha is an exception to this though), and for a very good reason. Its the staple food of all Punjabis (I am guessing that's true in Pakistan as well) and the way they can create magic with it, no one else can.

Punjabis settled in the old part of Delhi (read Chandni Chowk and areas around) only at the time of partition, when the original inhabitants here (primarily Muslims) moved to Pakistan leaving their houses unoccupied to be taken over by the new citizens of India (primarily Punjabi Hindus who had just moved from Pakistan). I am not sure about the demographics now, but I guess now you can see both communities living together peacefully and I can't recall a recent clash of a communal nature here.

Now that I am done with my political and historical commentary on the area, let me get down to business - Food :)

Famous Paranthas

I was here to find the famed paranthas of 'Paranthe wali gali' with my friend Siraj. I had been here twice as a kid and had never been too impressed by the paranthas, though I was always bowled over by the gulab jamuns and rabris.

So this time we made sure we took multiple recommendations before zeroing in on the specific parantha shop, also asked the locals about their recommendation. We eventually ended up trying out paranthas at two different places, and ate four different types of paranthas.

My review

So what's my verdict?

What's the big deal about 'Parathe wali gali'? I mean seriously! The paranthas were strictly average or below average. Being dipped completely in oil adds absolutely NOTHING to the taste, it just makes your fingers sticky for the entire day. Maybe I am being to harsh, but I really do not enjoy intensely fried food as much anymore. Maybe a few years earlier, I might have loved it, but not now.

However, I might still recommend a friend to go and try out this gali. The place is absolutely magical, especially if you enjoy street photography and love walking through narrow lanes. Mornings are especially good as the place is almost empty and you can find some great candid shots here.

Sharing a few images from my Sunday...

A local leading us to a specific shop...

The second parantha shop...

Sunday is also a great time to buy books in the area, you can discover old treasures troves like this :)

Some foreigners taking rest after the heavy paranthas...I think they enjoyed more than I did :)

Make your own Parantha!

So what if you can't have the best Parantha on the streets, you can surely make one yourself. I like the one made by the awesome Tarla Dalal on her website. You must visit her website to see this and other excellent recepies :)

Both are made with whole wheat flour, so what is the big difference between roti and paratha? Well, try this simple Paratha recipe to experience the difference. Although made with pretty much the same ingredients, the style of rolling, the method of cooking and the medium of cooking (with or without oil) vary, creating a world of difference in everything from the flavour to the texture.

Preparation Time: 5 mins
Cooking Time: 15 mins
Makes: 6 parathas

Ingredients

1. 1 cup whole wheat flour (gehun ka atta)
2. salt to taste
3. 1 tsp oil
4. whole wheat flour (gehun ka atta) for rolling
5. melted ghee for brushing and cooking

For Serving

Fresh curd

Method

1. Combine all the ingredients in a deep bowl and knead into a semi-soft dough using enough water.
2. Divide the dough into 6 equal portions.
3. Roll each portion into a 125 mm. (5") diameter circle, using a little whole wheat flour for rolling, 4. brush with melted ghee, fold into half to form a semi- circle.
5. Brush the semi-circle with melted ghee and fold again to form a triangle.
6. Roll out into a 125 mm. (5") length triangular paratha using a little whole wheat flour for rolling.
7. Heat a non-stick tava (griddle) and cook each paratha on both the sides, using a little ghee, till brown spots appear on both the sides.
8. Repeat steps 3 to 6 to make 5 more parathas.
9. Serve hot with fresh curds.