Nashik Kumbh 2015 with the Naga Babas: A Photo-story

Kumbh Mela 2015 at Nashik (Nasik) is about to get over and with it one of the world's largest gathering of humankind will come to an end. Unfortunately, I missed going to Kumbh at Nashik due to work commitments, but I followed many fantastic photographers and their work as they captured the essence of Kumbh though their lens.

One such photographer is Saify Naqvi, whom I have known for a while as a photographer who manages to capture the soul of any place with his camera. You can follow his work and his travels here - Saify Naqvi.

The following is an account of the time Saify spent at the Nashik Kumbh 2015.

A Naga Sadhu at Kushavart Kund in Trimbakeshwar wears his makeup of ashes post the 'snan' at the holy pond

A Naga Baba raises his hand to give blessings

A vistor to the Mela soaks in the sight of hundreds of faithful taking a dip in the river Godavari at the Ram Ghat in Nasik

Any large gathering of humanity is a major attraction for me. Kumbh Mela is a unique gathering of faithful with an equally amazing story about its origin. It is the largest and the oldest celebration of Hindu rituals anywhere in the world. The oldest non-Vedic written account of Kumbh is from mid 600 AD by the Chinese traveller Tsang Huan, who travelled across India from 629-645 CE.

In Nasik and in Trimbakeswar, 10 million people propelled by the religious belief of Moksha (Nirvana) to the faithful took the holy dip in the river Godavari in Nasik or the Kusavarta Kund in Trimbakeshwar. Kusavarta Kund is notional source of river Godavari and the temple in Trimbakeswar is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga (The Almighty light of Shiva).

Origin of Kumbh Mela

Vishnu the supreme Godhead in Hindiusm spilled amrita (nectar of immortality) at four location in India and the stage for the Kumb Mela was set. The narration of the incident figures in more than five millenia old Vedic records. Kumbh is a Sanskrit term which literally translate to 'Urn'. Mela is the Sankrit term that refers to a gathering or fair. Kumbh Mela is organised at those four locations where Vishnu, according to the Vedic literature, had spilled amrita. Every third years by rotation one of the four holiest cities of the Hindus in India hosts the Kumbh Mela. The four cities are Nashik, Ujjain, Haridwar and Prayag.

Kumbha Mela is held at all four places, by rotation every three years.

Ardha (Half) Kumbha Mela: Held at Haridwar and Prayag, every 6 years.

Purna (Full) Kumbha Mela: Held only at Prayag, every 12 years.

Maha (Great) Kumbha Mela: Held only at Prayag, every 144 years 

Travelling to Nasik is fairly easy. The nearest airport is Mumbai and is only 2.5 hrs drive away. In Nasik options to stay are available for all budget categories. I used Airbnb app to book a place and was pleasantly surprised by the accommodation. If you are planning to shoot in Trimbakeshwar booking ahead is a good idea, it's a small place and not many stay options.

A Naga Baba enjoying his Chillum

When the Begul for the commencement of the Shahi snap was sounded 

My fellow traveller and photographer par excellence stuck in the middle of a 2 mile long traffic Jam

Photography tips

There is a lot that goes in to planning a photography trips to Kumbh. But I don’t want to talk about logistics or technical aspects of photography in this post. Here are some tips to get some great shots:

It’s good to get lost: The trick to get pictures that captures the essence of the Mela is to get lost in it. Let the crowd take you where you want to go. Being up close and personal is the best way of shooting award winning images. 

Be invisible: A photographer should never be 'seen in the frame'. Befriend and engage your subject but don’t make them conscious of your presence, your camera will capture your presence reflected in the body language of the subject. 

Be mindful: Be intensely aware of the place you are shooting at. Take time to educate yourself about its history and reasons for its importance. Let the energy of a place and people guide you

If you can see it you can shoot it: When you hear 'oh I was there last week but it was nothing like your picture’ take it as compliment for your observation skills. We (us) are conditioned to look at the world outside in - i.e look at the whole then move on to the individual parts. As a photographer try looking at a frame inside out -i.e look at the subject then gradually add the things present in the environment to your frame. Build a story using this Inside out technique. Every photograph has to be a story. 

Elbow Room: Don’t be shy to get to the best vantage point even when there is no elbow room. When shooting in a crowded places it is to be expected. Get in their get your shot and get out. 

Trimbakeswar is a beautiful place, with odd shaped steep hills, lush terrain and Grape farms every where you look

Vistors looks on as a Naga Sadhu enjoy his Chillum

A naga sadhu and his posse very kindly agreed to guard my camera while i was shooting with the other one

A Naga Sadhu in his dream world

Flower Petals and Rangoli on the streets to welcome the procession moving towards the Kusavarta Kund in Trimbakeswar

Three generation of a family waiting at 3 a.m. to witness the procession of the faithful going for the holy dip at Kusavarta Kund

Flute seller playing his tunes in the market in Trimbakeswar Tehsil, in Nasik district

A Naga Sadhu enjoying his chillum

I started shooting a series - Portraits of Naga Sadhu(s) in 2013. From the ongoing Kumbh in Nasik this year I have made some more additions to this series.

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Do not worry if you missed the Nashik Kumbh 2015, as the next Kumbh mela is coming up next year at Ujjain. The mela will commence on 22nd of April and will end on 21st of May 2016. For any photographer, it wold be a wonderful chance to employe these techniques and to share your work with photography enthusiasts.