Mosques of Ahmedabad - Pir Kamal urf Malik Alim ki Masjid

'Are you from USA?', he asked and I was suddenly pulled out of my Saturday early morning semi-nap under the neem tree. I smiled and said no, I live just across the bridge. He was not satisfied and I gave him some more fodder and told him that I am from NID and currently researching the mosques in the area for a series of articles, and suddenly his face lit up. He told me lots about many other similar places around and called the caretaker of this mosque and asked him to help me in all possible ways and show me around. This was great because I got access to places which I would have otherwise not.

mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The front fascia of the Pir Kamal Mosque
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The broken Minarets
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
A Kite with raw material for build its nest on one
of the minarets
I visited the Pir Kamal mosque with the objective to start the long planned series on the Mosques of Ahmedabad. For me, if there is one thing that I connect with Ahmedabad, its the numerous heritage mosques spread all over the city, and perhaps this could be my tribute to the city which has given me the life as I know it today. So here I start the series with the mosque of Pir Kamal, for the simple reason that its located very close to home and hence easily accessible.

mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The Minaret again
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The old, calm mosque and the busy city just behind it
Needless to say its an old mosque and was out of use for years, till a moulvi decided to restart the services here about 50 years back. There is a small madrassa within the compound, and a school just outside.

There were small girls studying Koran just outside the mosque in the warm sun, some feeling drowsy, some chatting, while most deeply engrossed in the book. My presence made them all either silent or extremely chatty, I took a few of their pictures after asking for permission. None objected, including their teacher close by.

mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
A small boy rushing for his class
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim girls
Two more girls on their way to the class, more composed
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
Girls learning Koran in Arabic in the courtyard
The two minarets which once adorned the mosque have long fallen down, much like most other mosques in Ahmedabad. Still four storeys survive, and I got to climb it up. This wont be offered to everyone, but is quite an experience. The city looks beautiful and unusual from top, on one side the calm courtyard of the mosque and on the other side the hustle and bustle of the hectic morning life.

mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
On the way up on one of the Minarets
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
Prayer area from top
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The domes on top
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
He was the only one offering prayers with me at that time
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The divine light...
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The intricate carvings on the Minarets, the whole
mosque is covered with such detailed work
This is the only mosque where I used the urinal as well, something which is always present in most mosques, unlike the temples. Needless to say, it was quite a relief! I wish such amenities exist in other parts of the town as well.

Apart from the mosque there are two more places around worth a visit. The first is the Roza of Pir Kamal, right next to the mosque. This is humble structure and lies within the school compound, something similar to NID, I might just add. The other is the mazaar of Pri Kamal, accessible through the narrow lanes of the poor neighbourhood. Once a kabristan (burial ground), its now a small basti with the mazaar in the center. I intend to visit the mazaar again during the annual urs, when musical programmes also happen here.

mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The Roza of Pir Kamal
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
On the way to the Mazaar
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The care-taker of the Mazaar
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
The Mazaar inside
mosques of ahmedabad pir kamal malik alim masjid islam muslim
An old man selling charpoy inside a bottle :)
The caretaker took me everywhere and introduced me to all. One thing that surprised me was that everyone greeted everyone else, and soon I also started with As-Salāmu `Alaykum (السلام عليكم) for everyone who looked at me and smiled. But it was the women who would come out of their houses and giggle the most. I asked one of them if it was because of my hair, which made her go into another set of uncontrollable giggles. I photographed only a few women, but none objected to the camera. I guess they all believed I was an NRI and hence harmless.

The sun was getting hotter by the time I left, deeply satisfied with the morning and already thinking about the next mosque to visit. Too many thoughts in mind, I needed a chai and newspaper to think further...

Here is a map if someone wants to visit.

View Larger Map

Comments

  1. very interesting travel log. thanx for sharing. it's like reading a short travel book :)

    ReplyDelete
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  2. Interesting to see those intricate cravings on the minarets. The design patterns on first glance looked like from a South Indian temple. Any rough idea when was this mosque was built. Looks like an mix of architecture ideas..

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  3. Very interesting post and pictures. The details and workmanship on the minerets speak volumes of our ancient cuture.

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  4. I am so glad the caretaker allowed you where most people can't go as you were able to shoot such unusual and attractive photos and show us "the other side" of a mosque. That is a very interesting series you have started here!

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  5. Great to know that you are with NID. Student? The bird and the minaret look so beautiful.

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  6. @fiziskandarz: Thanks a lot, I loved your blog as well, especially the amazing pictures there :)

    @Dhiraj: Thanks!

    @Sidharth: I agree dating the monument is important, will surely update the blog with that as soon as I have it. Though this could be a 16th Century mosque. Most Mosques in Gujarat have very mixed architecture...they have adopted quite a bit from the local styles.

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  7. @Sridharan: You are right, and I wonder how beautiful it would have all looked when the minarets were complete and not broken...

    @DeeBee: Thanks :) I do hope to keep up with the series...and its gonna be a long one. Ahmedabad is so full of these beautiful structures, each with its own story...

    @Mridula: I was a student in NID a while back, now a practicing designer :)

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  8. Hi from Greece
    Many thanks for your visit to my blog and fro your kind words !!
    Your blog is interesting with beautiful colored photos !!
    Best regards
    Magda

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  9. Oh, this was SO INTERESTING and again, intriguingly told! I felt so drawn to the sculptural detailing and fine craftsmanship of the building...so beautiful...I'm really looking forward to seeing more mosques with you. Hopefully, you'll be able to persuade the caretakers to give you a conducted tour in all cases ;)

    Now, I'm most intrigued. What are the little plaited or knitted squares of coloured string/yarn suspended inside the glass bottles intended to be, in other words, what is their significance?

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  10. beautiful captures and wonderful commentary too!

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  11. @Magda: Thank a lot :)

    @Desiree: To answer your question, its something called a charpoy here, which is basically a knitted bed. What this guy has in his hand is a souvenir of the same product, which is made inside a bottle!

    @Magiceye: Thanks a lot :)

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  12. I like it that you give a narrative with your pictures. It gives a soul to your captures.

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    Replies
    1. Its really nice mosque u huv to visit once i live near by it

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  13. Can't decide what I like more-the photographs or the commentary. Great post as usual, Siddharth.

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  14. Hey, nice pictures and beautiful place. I liked especially the carvings and sad that they won't let everyone inside.

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  15. Hello, thanks for visiting! Very nice your blog, travel is one of the best things in life, we take with us what was experienced and not what is material.Come back whenever you want, i'll come back here!

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  16. Nice blog, I will add you to my blog list.

    Greetings and enjoy tralling,
    Filip

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  17. It is sad when you're witnessing the "decline" of some structures that used to be such architectural beauties. But at least you can imagine them in their old glories. The "interiors" look beautiful!

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  18. Stunning pictures and photography! My compliments for your blog.

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  19. Fantastic shots! Another place I would love to visit. The entranceway with the towers is very powerful and different from all the mosques I've been to.

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  20. @Purba: Thanks a lot, me for the narrative is first, at least on most ocassions and then the pictures to support :)

    @Sudhagee: Thanks :)

    @Nethra: Thanks a lot, btw they do allow everyone inside, except when its prayer time. What I meant here was climb up the stairs and walk on the terrace :)

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  21. @Marcos: I completely agree with you. Will surely visit you blog again as well :)

    @Philip: :)

    @sm: Thanks!

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  22. @eyeinthesky: Yes that's so true, and it happens so often to me that am surprised why none is doing anything about it...these old structures still retain so much of their beauty that its amazing...

    @Phivos: Thanks a lot :)

    @JM: Thanks! The fort-like entrance is quite common in this side of India, hopefully I will be able to write about many more mosques here, you might be able to see more :)

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  23. Hi Siddhartha, These pictures are very beautiful. I haven't been to many mosques but I am quite intrigued by the architecture of religious places in general. :-)

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  24. It must be a great place, your images proved that ....

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  25. @final_transit: Same is true with me, I also love the architecture of all religious places, though am not religious much...

    @deepak: It surely was, especially at the time I visited the place...

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  26. first of all it is good to ask locals-they can show what is not in any guides.
    Intersting that the ladies didn't have anything against taking photos!

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  27. Yes Ola, you are absolutely right, locals can always give you the best tips :)

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  28. That was a very nice one! Gujarat provincial Islamic architecture is supposed to be the best of all provincial styles.
    It must be great travelling around and seeing them all.. especially when you get to learn their history and culture!
    Great Going!
    Cheers!
    Hema

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    Replies
    1. There are many mosque in ahmedabad ancient new like sidi saiyed ,jumma masjid (mosque) and this pir kamal and old jumma masjid too & etc etc.....

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  29. Thanks a lot Hemu! Its certainly great to travel around and see places, especially history because I am so fond of it :)

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  30. hey i live near by it only plzz come again there is another masjid name ahle hadees jama masjid its not ancient but its awesome masjid

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the offer Aqif, I will surely get in touch with you if I come by that side again...it would be great to see this mosque as well :)

      Delete
  31. Hey bro can you help me i want to create this type of blog so how can i ??help me plz

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sure Aqif. Its pretty easy actually, you can use the google templates to start and then improvise based on what you like and so on. All the best :)

      Delete
  32. the intricate carvings have a jain toran- like sculture[ found in jain temples profusely

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  33. Have you finished this project? Would love to see more...

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    Replies
    1. Unfortunately not...could do only two more mosques. Moved out of the city and couldn't finish the project :(

      Delete
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