Jakhau in Kutch - the land of the dried, dead fish

Jakhau is a small port town on the coast of Gujarat (Kutch region). It was a prominent port in the region until the Mandvi port opened in the 16th Century. Now its a conglomeration of the small fishing community which lives here, especially during the eight fishing months.

We visited the town in one of these fishing months and so had the pleasure of observing some of the local fishing traditions as well as trawlers which are used for fishing.

Jakhau Kutch gujarat port
Jakhau
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port
Jakhau
The port town welcomes you with loads of mangroves, but sadly these are dying. From what I heard from our host, there used to be many here in the past, and now these are fast retreating. But they look lovely, nevertheless. Apart from the mangroves, its the stench of drying fish that remains with you much after you leave the place. There are tons of fish being dried all around, and frankly speaking after a while it even stops bothering you.

Jakhau Kutch gujarat port
Mangroves on the way to Jakhau
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port mangrove
Mangroves on the way to Jakhau
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fish
Drying fish
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fish
Drying fish
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fish
Rows of drying fish
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fish
More rows of drying fish
As for a landmark, there is a huge light-house in the area where salt water is collected to make salt.

Jakhau Kutch gujarat port salt
The Light House
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fish
Fisherman working on the fishing nets
Jakhau has a nice lazy feel to it, also because most of the men are generally out in the sea and only the women and the children (those who stay back) are seen during the day. They are very friendly people and gave 
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port dog
The lazy dog :)
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port local gujarati men
Few local available men
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port ice cream
Ice-cream on the beach; and no we didn't try!
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port crying baby
Crying baby
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port woman with baby
A little better one :)
The most exciting part of being there was getting inside the trawler of the fishermen. This one had just arrived and they were busy unloading their catch. Being a guy, I was given full access into their living areas as well as the storage area (for the fish). It was also a perfect place to take pictures and we posed in turns!

Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fishing boat
The trawler
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fishing boat
This is where the fishermen sleep
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fishing boat
Just out of storage area
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fishing boat
The trawler parked
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fishing boat
The flag (boring titles now)
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fishing boat
Shrimp being taken out
Jakhau Kutch gujarat port fishing boat
Wannabe Pirate :)

If you are looking for a place to stay, there are no options in Jakhau. Its not more than a day's trip from Bhuj, including the travel time. Make sure you carry food and enough water to survive through the day. Very little of either would be available there.

Comments

  1. I like the Lazy dog...! Good post Siddharth..

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  2. why do they dry the fish??

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    Replies
    1. Because there is good demand of dried smoked fish in Manglore and north east.

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  3. Oh...they dry the fish everywhere - just outside the house, on the terrace, in the open grounds! Fish is just about everywhere...

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  4. Was customs inspector there in 1998 to 2000, faced one grave cyclone. Was indeed far better place thence.

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    Replies
    1. The best thing in jakhuu(as the folks say) is we can find all types of fishermen from each area of Gujarat's coastline here viz. Koli kharwaa diu/veraval/jafrabad:valasadi /onjali mota bhai, mandvi/tunaa/kandla/jutt/salaya/sikkai/bedi & local sanghaar&wagher. All living with amity and few cominf wirh families too.

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