Badshahi Ashurkhana - Hyderabad's connection with its rich past!

Built during the late 16th century (1593-1596), Badshahi Ashurkhana is one of the oldest Imambaras in the country, and was built by Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah. For those of you don't know, an Imambara or Ashurkhana is a place of mourning for the Shia Muslims, and another city that's famous for Imambaras is another Shia dominant city in North India, Lucknow.

Badshahi Ashurkhana hyderabad photo travel guide
Badshahi Ashurkhana in Hyderabad

Anyone who has been to Lucknow would certainly know about these iconic symbol of Nawabi culture of the city -  Bara Imambara, and its lesser known cousin Chhota Imambara. Growing in Uttar Pradesh, I had somehow assumed that an Imambara was a Lucknow only concept. But boy, I was so wrong!

The Muslims in Hyderabad have traditionally been Shias and so many of their religious practices are seen in the city, including the presence of an Imambara. However, like most heritage buildings in the city, apart from the famous Charminar, the Ashurkhana is also in a state of disrepair and has lost much of its past glory.

When it was built in the late 16th century, the building was grand and the centre of much religious activities. The most famous part of the interiors was the tile work which covered the walls from ceiling to floor. However, the intricate work was destroyed to an extent by the flooding of the city a few times since then. Instead of replacing the missing tiles, a cheaper alternative was found and these were painted with hands. The difference is subtle, but you do see it often till the level of the flood line. Though, done tastefully and with lot of skill, time hasn't been as kind of the colorsn; unlike the tiles, it's coming off or getting faded.

I was disappointed to see its demise, but also happy to have come to a place, that I didn't even know existed. In fact most tourists to the city don't know about it, unless they dig deeper and seek hidden gems.

Badshahi Ashurkhana hyderabad photo travel guide
Intricate tile work

The best day to visit is not Friday, as I imagined, but Tuesday, when free food is distributed to the poor and the place is alive with people and laughter. On lithe days, it's quite and often the only person you would see here would be the old caretaker.

Planning a visit to the Ashurkhana 

If got don't have a lot of time in the city, I would suggest talking an old city walk and visit here with them. I also did the same, and though the walk can be improved, the guide is sincere and very knowledgeable about the history of the city. He can also make introductions with the people there, and then you can stay back to explore more.

I did the walk organised by the Telangana tourism and its also the most extremely affordable. For just Rs 50 you not only get to walk with the expert, you are also offered a simple breakfast and chai in the end. Clearly, the objective of the walk is not to make money, but expose as many visitors to the city's history as possible in the most affordable way possible.

Badshahi Ashurkhana hyderabad photo travel guide
Pastel hues on the walls

It's possible to go by yourself as well. Here's a map to help you guide. Make sure you visit in the morning and find a decent spot for parking your car. Even better would be to come in a cab, because parking is really challenging in the old city, unless you are from Hyderabad itself.

Additional food tip

Once done with the early morning walk, I would strongly recommend breakfast at Shadab. Though I am a vegetarian and could barely eat anything there, it's a heaven for non-vegetarians. 

Comments

  1. This looks interesting and beautiful. I missed it on my visit to Hyderabad.

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  2. Yes Hyderabad is a great place to travel and i have been here but i wasn't aware of this marvel, the tile work the pastel hue looks marvel, everything about the ambiance of the site looks so appealing. Thanks for sharing this blog, surely going to visit this splendor on my next trip.

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  3. We've never been to Hyderabad but this looks like a beautiful place to visit. The tile work reminds me of Morocco, Istanbul or even the Mudejar architecture of southern Spain. What a small world it is! How long does the tour go for? Thanks for the post!

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  4. Badshahi Ashurkhana looks absolutely stunning. I'm always amazed by Shia temples' decorations. I remember when seeing one for the first time in person years ago, I couldn't believe that it was real. :)
    So nice that you've found this gem. If I ever come to Hyderbad, I would really like to visit. And that breakfast sounds like a good idea after all the sightseeing. ;)

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  5. I adore the look of Badshahi Ashurkhana. It seems like a hidden gem in Hyperbad, and one that I personally would love to visit. I'm particularly taken aback by the interesting and intricate tilework - it's stunning and so colourful!

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  6. This Imambara is absolutely incredible to look at. From the photos you shared, I would never have guessed that it had been damaged and (imperfectly) restored. Thank you for the tips on which days and times to visit, as well. That's so helpful for planning a trip!

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  7. What a beautiful tile work! Too bad some had been destroyed by the floods. Thanks for the tip to visit on a Tuesday. I would love to get some free food hahaha

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  8. Appreciate the definition of Imambara, because I hadn’t come across that term before. Badshahi Ashurkhana looks like it would have been stunning in the height of it’s day – and it still is, though definitely sad to have seen the beautiful interior design take a hit with flooding and time. Thanks for the tip on visiting on a Tuesday – I would love to see what it’s like in the height of it’s activity, people watch, and soak in the atmosphere.

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  9. Please make a blog about the things/grear you use

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  10. I would really like to visit. India has so much to offer. I think it is great that they feed the poor. Everyone out happy and enjoying themselves seems like a great time to see everything come alive.

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  11. Wow! It’s beautiful place for mourning! And crazy tile work! Seriously, old art works are so amazing.

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  12. Badshahi Ashurkhana is definitely a hidden gem. I didn't even know about it before this post! You give a great overview of the history as well. It's too bad it was originally damaged by flooding. I would definitely do the walk with an expert

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  13. Interesting article!

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